The Seiko Presage models we’ve seen all these years started with the Cocktail Time and then it went to the Open-Heart dials, which served well as the first steps to the Grand Seiko. However, there are entirely different ranges from Presage – the Prestige, Style 60’s and the Sharp-Edged lines – than the basic Cocktail we kept aside for discussion later; seems it’s time we get to that chapter. This discussion doesn’t include the porcelain Arita.
A Sharp-looking Seiko’s overview
Seiko’s fame for offering one of the best values in luxury mechanical watchmaking becomes credible once you pick up these blends of precision modern technology with superior aesthetics, crafted in traditional designs.
The Sharp Edged Series with its clean, sharp angular edges is the newest addition to the Presage repertoire; their intricate, textured dials inspired by hemp leaf motif; another traditional aspect of Japan.
Despite a name that might appear bit cryptic to some, it doesn’t take time to become apparent why these watches are named so. The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series reveals Japanese artistry through a fresh, powerful expression of traditional expertise, capturing the simplistic refinement of Japanese intricacy, and clubbing it together with the sharp andangular case constructions. At a size very close to 40mm/11 mm, the stainless steel cases have been given a super-hard coating that align these watches more with the dress/sports category rather than keeping them just for the dress category alone. Either way, it’s a series embodying the essentials of watchmaking, with its cases and bracelets incorporating many flat surfaces that shine and gleam from every angle. They have been precisely engineered and polished for that crisp look. The subtle, vertical brush, hairline-finishes on the top surfaces) add further multi-dimensional effects to the edges, which are, pleasing, if nothing else. Further prominence comes from the contrasting brilliant gleam on the sides, pretty much like Zaratsu polishing on the Grand Seiko. In fact, both the case and bracelet of the Sharp Edged Presage watches resemble that of the Grand Seiko’s very closely. The integrated three-link bracelets follow suit with each row clearly demarcated from the next! The form is pronounced; the profile crisper with – if compared to humans – a chiseled, angular build. It turns the usual, regular Presage fit for more dynamic characters; even its lugs are less rounded and end abruptly, keeping parity with the angularity.
The Eight-beat per second GMT Caliber 6R64 is accurate and reliable; pretty sturdy too. At a frequency of 28,800 VPH mechanical, automatic movement never strays beyond 25 seconds a day, on either side and stores 45 hours of running power on a fully wound mainspring. It consists of 29 Jewels with a Power Reserve indicator at 6, GMT function and a Date Pointer at 3. Allows for both hacking and hand-winding. Don’t expect any fancy finishes though.
A remarkable Seiko 2021 release, more so for GMT fans, the Grand Presage – as many have bestowed the moniker upon it – the inspirations from the sportier Grand Seiko GMT and Ananta are visibly present in the Seiko Presage Sharp-Edged GMT. The different color styles give every watch its own personality, different from the rest in the clan.
Descending to the dial
The Japanese Asanoha (hemp leaf pattern) on the dial is a design that has prevailed in the Japanese culture since the Heian period. The Japanese culture holds hemp as a symbol of rapid, strong growth and it is believed to bring good health – to everyone but – especially to the young. The hemp pattern is presented in rich texture and intricacy and offered in a range of traditional Japanese colors. In Japanese, these colors are referred to as:
Shironeri: Unbleached silky white | Aitetsu: Indigo iron | Tokiwa: The color of evergreen trees.| Susutake: Brown, smoked bamboo | Sumi-iro:Black Japanese ink |Ebi-iro: Crimson Glory vine colour | Binroujikuro: Elegant black with a hint of blue | Suzu-iro: Light gray.
Very much unlike the rest of the Presage family, traditional Japanese enamel or Urushi lacquer or even porcelain does not get into the Sharp Edged Series. It rather features an engaging Japanese hexagonal hemp pattern on the dial, enlivening the popular hemp leaf motif used in Japanese culture. It’s an overlapping geometric pattern covering entire dials and creating multitudes of peaks and valleys responding differently to light at different angles. The sapphire crystal atop too aids in the light and shadow play.
The hands and indexes exhibit enhanced legibility for their sharp angles. The GMT hands – their colors bringing sharp contrast to the dial – stand out clearly; even at night, its generous layers of Lumibrite luminescence ensuring very high levels of legibility. The GMT hand is a dual time indicator, fully adjustable without stopping the minutes- and the seconds-hands.
As for the other two (and a few more) versions of the Presage, come back after a couple more days.,
Keep dropping in to leave your replies below. State which one you like the most and for what?