TABLE OF CONTENTS
- A quick look at the Citizen models under discussion
- Toff choice: Citizen Promaster Marine Satellite Wave Titanium
- For the grease monkey: Citizen Promaster MX Chronograph
- For the Megalophiliac: Citizen PCAT
- For gray, flannel suits: Citizen WDR
- To dive into some poisonous delicacy: Citizen Asia Fugu Promaster L. E.
- For the well worn: Citizen Fugu 4.0 PROMASTER Mechanical Diver
- Conclusion: Old or new, Citizen is your beau!
- F.A.Q. – Everything else that you might want to know about Citizen
Watches made wonderful gifts yesteryears as they do now; only that there weren’t too many when it was about making a choice. Very recently – compared to the entire timeline of the watch industry – concepts behind watch-making went awash by the digital wave; now, you’re spoilt for choices.
Modern technology has taken classic elegance forward and in the way, also developed some futuristic crossovers which certain brands have mastered. First one among those is Citizen and no, they did not start and stop with Eco-Drive. Upon this platform, they’ve built some of the most wonderful of watches that will stay and perform come what may!
That’s not to say they are indestructible. Just their tolerance levels are higher than another watch in the same price bracket.
This year, too, Citizen launched new models of which the OF Aviator timepieces deserve praises for bringing in the Navihawk – an US exclusive – feel from a new perspective. These are Citizen Watches that mimic the Promaster Navihawk while being more acceptable for urban wearing. Needless saying, their specs and therefore, the prices are lesser than that of the real Navihawk.
Following the footprints of the Aviator, comes the OF Seaplane. 2021 saw the Hakuto-R Super Titanium series getting most of the spotlight; the OF Aviator and Seaplane extensively refreshed the markets in UK and US after a long absence of the earlier OF models. Those aside, there are also a few watches from Citizen which are making a comeback in 2022. Let’s have a look at them and also the reasons behind them gaining back public interest.
A quick look at the Citizen models under discussion
|Model||Calibre||Calibre type||Power reserve||Calibre functions||Case/Strap details||Dimensions||WR||Product Page link|
|Citizen Promaster Marine Satellite Wave Titanium||F158||Analog, Eco Drive||720 days/7 years (sleep mode)||+/- 05 seconds per month w/ Satellite Timekeeping System, 40 time zones, antimagnetic, automatic pointer|
correction , Illuminance indicator, GPS positioning , Perpetual Calendar, Shock detection function, Dive
|Super Titanium build; Duratect DLC (unidirectional rotating bezel), Duratect MRK (gas hardened titanium)|
case, Screw-down/in crown & case back, Sapphire crystal
|ISO 6425 200m. [Swimming, Showering & Snorkelling|
|Citizen Promaster MX MOTO Chronograph||E820||Analog, Eco-Drive||720 days||1/20 Second / 60 Minutes Chronograph; Perpetual Calendar, Dual Time (2nd Time Zone),12/24 Hour Time,|
|Stainless Steel/ Leather (w/Buckle clasp); Screwed-in Case Back, Tachymeter scale upon fixed bezel,|
22mm (lug width)(d)
|200m [Swimming, Showering & Snorkelling]|
|Citizen PCAT||E660||Analog, Eco-Drive||10 months (36 months w/sleep mode on)||Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Perpetual Calendar, Chronograph, Alarm, Dual Time, Multiple Time Zone,|
Radio-controlled time & calendar calibration.
|Stainless Steel case & bracelet w/solid case back; , Black PVD coating, sapphire crystal||43mm (d)|
22mm (Lug Width)
|200m [Swimming, Showering & Snorkelling]|
|Citizen WDR DRIVE||J810||Analog, Eco-Drive||240 days||Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date; Insufficient charge warning, overcharge protection.||Stainless Steel case, genuine leather strap, solid case back; Black PVD coated bezel, sapphire crystal||41mm (d)|
22mm (lug width)
|100m [Swimming, Showering & Snorkelling]|
Fugu Promaster ASIA L. E.
|8203||Mechanical automatic||40+ hours||Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Day/ Date (bilingual)||Stainless Steel Case, Rubber Strap, Unidirectional Pepsi timer bezel, left-side crown, sapphire crystal||42mm (d) 13mm (t) 20mm (Lug Width)||200m [Swimming, Showering & Snorkelling]|
|Citizen Fugu Gen. 4.0 Promaster Mechanical Diver||8204||Mechanical automatic||42 hours||Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Day/ Date (bilingual)||Stainless Steel Case w/ solid, screw-in case back; Unidirectional timer bezel, left-side crown, sapphire|
20mm (Lug Width)
|200m [Swimming, Showering & Snorkelling]|
Toff choice: Citizen Promaster Marine Satellite Wave Titanium
The Promaster Marine Satellite Wave by Citizen Watches is the first divers’ watch in the world that combines a light-powered movement with GNSS (Global Navigation Satellite System) capability. Its full Super Titanium™ build makes the entire case (including case-back) and the buckle light in weight, scratch- and corrosion-resistant; antimagnetic and highly resistant to heat. Additionally, it’s gentle on the skin.
However, at the same time; natural Titanium is soft and its viscosity in its liquid/heated state makes it hard to process using common processing technologies. CITIZEN uses proprietary surface-hardening technology (Duratect DLC) to create the sharp, glossy look with all its fine surfaces and excellently rounded-off edges. This special treatment results in turning ordinary titanium into Super Titanium™. This material is resistant to extreme impacts and extremely corrosive agents whether in water or upon land or hills.
As the most preferred material for the PROMASTER range of watches, the Super Titanium receives the Duratect MRK besides the standard Duratect DLC, turning the Super Titanium even harder. This hardness doesn’t translate to brittle. Duratect DLC is smooth to touch and puts up great resistance against scratches. The Duratect MRK – on the other hand – hardens by saturating titanium with gas. This treatment turns titanium further resistant to knocks. DLC on MRK creates the lustrous, black finish.
The main feature of the Promaster Marine Satellite Wave is its dial-trim ring. It features the world’s most popular dive and snorkelling sites that UNESCO considers to be World Heritages. These are: Sharm El Sheikh, Maldives, Phuket, the Great Barrier Reef, Fiji, Hawaii, Galapagos Islands and Fernando de Noronha.
With this watch, Citizen started their Save the BEYOND campaign globally, to raise awareness about lesser known coral reefs, jungles and icebergs and how they re degrading. Some of these are situated at the remotest places of the world. It marks the 30th anniversary of PROMASTER (debut 1989) and also to honour the professionals whose battle for saving these beauties are unending.
.The Promaster Marine Satellite Wave Diver takes 3 seconds (under a clear sky) for every signal it receives from a GNSS satellite. These signals help the watch to calculate positional data and update the time and the calendar.
- Turns off satellite signal reception.
- Turns of automatic time reception.
- Turns off power generation.
- Turns off power save function.
- Turns off hand position correction function.
The Dive-mode function puts diver safety as top priority. You activate the Dive mode at the simultaneous press of the 2 o’clock and 4 o’clock buttons. This will deactivate all functions, except time display. It removes the chance for any erroneous function occurring from accidental press of buttons.
Its high visibility – especially in total darkness – results from the bold, photo-luminescent markings, the lume material absorbing light way faster than traditional, standard lumes. Not just brighter but also with a longer stay. The colours are what offer the best visibility in the deep waters.
The bezel uses a unidirectional structure. This structure increases diver safety by eliminating the risk of accidentally knocking the bezel the wrong way during a dive.
The screw-down crown and the case back are a vital part of its excellent water resistance. The screw-in system of the crown prevents accidental pull-outs or rotations upon impacts too.
For the grease monkey: Citizen Promaster MX Chronograph
- 1/20 Second Chronograph Measures up to 60 Minutes
- Perpetual Calendar
- Dual Time (Second Time Zone)
- 12/24 Hour Time
Evocative and provocative, this Moto Series watch has enough heft to knock an attacker down if slammed against the bones and therefore, can be expected to take far greater abuse than it claim officially. This one holds when you hit the gas full steam. It’s one from the classic, racing variety that executes its capabilities way better.
The Citizen Promaster MX incorporates designs from the racing gloves to an automobiles instrument cluster; the chronograph measuring to both 1/20th of a second and 59.59minutes in total. Modern features include a dual time function and an alarm. You also get them in black/steel and blue/steel colourways.
To operate the watch as a race timer, make use of the tachymeter deployed on the external bezel. Calculate speed over a fixed distance using the central seconds-hand pointing against the scale. To measure total time lap time and split time, the 1/20th second chronograph can start and stop to catch up later again with the missed time. This you can do as many times you like within a 59 minutes span.
For the Megalophiliac: Citizen PCAT
- Synchronized to Atomic Time Clock for Superior Accuracy
- Atomic Timekeeping Technology with Synchronized Time Adjustment Available in 24 Time Zones
- 1 Second Chronograph Measures up to 60 Minutes
- Perpetual Calendar
- 12/24 Hour Time
- Power Reserve Indicator
This one neither looks a diver, nor one among those to wear at a race. But it’s a good watch for speeding activities, whether on land, in air or on water surface. That apart, it’s a dependable, everyday accompaniment that helps you to do everything in time!.
The Citizen PCAT receive an update in 2022, incorporating features from diving and racing archetypes The Eco Drive power generation always keeps it full of the necessary running power with minimal effort from your end, which is, exposing it to bright light every other day. It synchronizes to the Atomic Time Clock for all the 24 different time zones according to its location.
PCAT stands for Perpetual Chronograph Atomic Timekeeping. It means, it has a calendar that’ll calibrate itself to the available radio signal until the year 2100 and the chronograph is never short of running power. The watch automatically adjusts once a day and whenever that you want. Precision time telling in a total of 43 cities around the world!
Additionally, the PCAT displays 24-hour time. This is a great aid to get rid of j
et lag and for times when you can’t discern between day and night. The watch’s power res
erve can hold up to a six-month charge, so you may even visit Antarctica at night.
For gray, flannel suits: Citizen WDR
The first and foremost information you should get about this particular model of Citizen WDR Drive is it is a model that’s no more under production and only a handful are waiting to be taken. It is an edgy design structure within the classic parameters; that’s why, it’s named as WDR (With Due Respect).
The bezel has been given a black ion-plating (PVD) and the brilliant red accents brings the necessary contrast to make it immediately noticeable and also adds a sporty touch to any strict dress code.
Despite appearing a little busy, the dial of the WRD makes it both a functional and a fun piece. The framing of the hands matches the indices in appearance and when the light catches the dial, they sing above the deep black bezel; while the red-tipped seconds hand adds warmth and legibility and delivers sumptuously on the looks too, especially on the grey version.
Once charged fully, be at peace for 180 days.
To dive into some poisonous delicacy: Citizen Asia Fugu Promaster L. E.
- Pepsi Bezel
- 200m Water Resistance
- Rubber Bracelet
- Black Dial
- Automatic Movement
- Caliber: 8203
- Sapphire Glass
- Analog 3 Hands Display
- Stainless Steel Case
- Luminous Hands And Markers
- Day and Date Display
- Uni-Directional Rotating Bezel
The Fugu is one of Citizen’s iconic dive watches; this one is more exclusive since it was released only for the Asian market. This is the 3rd generation Fugu with the iconic puffer fish (“FUGU” in Japanese) graving on it case back. It comes with a table printed on the strap that tells you about decompression timings for specific depths.
The first Fugu is considered a legendary tool watch and the new incarnation is even better than it. The bigger Asia Fugu sports the same signature left hand crown (8 o’clock), which is an added security against sudden impacts and an added comfort for the wearer. Owners of extra fleshy wrists: You’ll never find again a crown digging into your wrist as long as you stick to this one.
The 2018 NY011 Pepsi simply looks bright and jovial. It is up by 2mm from its predecessors, standing at 44mm. The watch stands 13mm tall, which gives it a hefty appearance. The strap is made from polyurethane material, softer and more durable and the sapphire is tough as a rock.
The Caliber 8203 movement doesn’t hack. It means, you can’t stop the seconds-hand from running unless the mainspring uncoils completely. Now, that’s something we DON’T at all recommend. If you’d like it even brighter, check the one with a red bezel.
- Band Material : Stainless Steel (Silver-Tone)
- Case Material : Stainless Steel (Silver-Tone)
- Indexes & Hands Color : Luminous
- Bezel Material : Stainless-steel
- Case Size : 44.0 mm
- Case Thickness : 13.1 mm
- Dial Color : Black
- Glass Type : Sapphire Crystal Glass
- Day & Date Display, Luminous, Screw Down Crown, Power Reserve
- Water Resistance : 200 M / 20 Bar / 20 ATM
Movement Type : Japan Made Automatic Movement (Cal. 8204, 21 Jewels)
For the well worn: Citizen Fugu Gen. 4.0 PROMASTER Mechanical Diver
This is the 2021 version of the Citizen Asia Limited Edition PROMASTER. This mechanical diver can dive safely till 650 feet and is the latest chapter of the FUGU storybook. This one, too, is based on the original iconic 1989 model – the NY004.
The 2021 Gen 4 Promaster is 44m across and sports a sapphire crystal as well as an upgraded movement – the cal. 8204. The Fugu now allows hacking the seconds for far more precise time setting.
This 4th Gen. FUGU features a unique bezel with groups of serrated teeth at even intervals to facilitate a grip under wet or oily conditions. These serrations earned the series its nickname – the Fugu! A full-blown puffer fish is therefore, engraved on its case back.
Despite its larger size, the watch wears smaller than the previous generation Fugu models, but its generous dimensions help the watch to wrap around the wrist.
The watch feels very robust and well built while the clicks on the bezel give out positive feedbacks, pronounced, firm and tactile. A high level of fit and finish sets the Gen 4.0 Fugu to compete with the upper-level diver watches in the market.
The 4th Gen Fugu gets a screw-down crown along with the screw-in case back, which increases its water resistance capabilities greatly. It’s amazingly smooth but then again, due to this smoothness, the new Fugu loses its industrial feel.
The dial, however; remains largely unchanged, which is a good thing. This has kept the legibility and clarity intact. The markers are still huge and prominent; with generous amounts of SuperLumiNova fill. So are its hands, which doubly assure nothing goes amiss when you look at its dial; doesn’t matter if it’s day or the night.
Conclusion: Old or new, Citizen is your beau!
Citizen is one of the most frequent presentation wristwatches that won the service awards, many of them lasting over decades and this experience often bars owners to theoretically categorise them; making it difficult for them to choose from other brands which do not quite squeeze as much finery and as many functionalities in a compact package as Citizen does for the same price.
Citizen watches, in plain words, are pretty good even in terms of build quality and this also applies outside the realms of their purpose-driven watches. Sure, some of the tier lists often rank other brands higher but then again, those watches higher in order also demand a higher price.
For them who do not find the Citizen watches to be a preference so far must try out the ones mentioned above. With every model making it loud and clear what it is meant for, you stay rest assured there is a true beast waiting to atop your wrist.
Both the Eco-Drive and mechanical timepieces are pretty awesome and they have designs geared for all sorts of individuals, occasions and purposes; all goodness aside, they are as unfussy as they can get. These watches are true workhorses and are built directly to handle the environment you are into, with an abundance of technical functions built within.
Are these add-ons simply considered to be useless bells and whistles for an urban life? Maybe, a little too much for ordinary individuals but if you share some space with technology and extreme sports, you’ll enjoy wearing them all! Yes, even the dress WDR; for Citizen knows, sometimes you do feel like heading the golf or tennis court or the swimming pool straight from your work.
F.A.Q. – Everything else that you might want to know about Citizen watches
A. Probably, it just ran out of power. When power reserve depletes, place the watch under bright, cold light. The dial should face up. Direct sunlight falling on the solar panel is alright for a few minutes but not for extended period. Should you prefer Sunlight to charge your watch, keep it in a well-lit room away from direct sunlight.
The watch will need light to charge; not heat. The heat from direct Sunlight can melt the solar panels on the dial if the exposure is more than fifteen or twenty minutes at a stretch. Depending on the model, charging time shall vary.
A. For chronograph watches, the central seconds hand will stay still till you activate the chronograph function. It will stop when you stop/reset the chronograph. If your watch has a central, regular seconds-hand, it could be loose hardware or if it has a dedicated stepper motor, it might have gone bad. Only authorised service personnel can solve your problem.
A. It happens when the battery charge is low. The insufficient charge warning function is responsible for this, so that you don’t let the rechargeable battery run entirely dry. Complete exhaustion damages the rechargeable battery to varying levels.
Place it under bright, cold light for 20 to 30 minutes to charge it up. If it still keeps jumping after an hour, take your watch to a Citizen authorised service centre.
A. This happens when the watch has stopped functioning momentarily and has restarted. This is a problem with the circuitry of the movement. It will affect precision timekeeping.
In case your watch has a time setting warning feature, it will be resolved once you recharge the battery properly and adjust your watch.
A. This happens when your Eco-Drive watch comes out of sleep mode/ power-saving function. Sleep mode stops the hand in order to save energy. Upon waking up, the hands move very fast to catch up with the current time.
A. The fog, if it disappears within a couple of minutes after drying the glass top, imposes no problem. If the fog keeps returning or doesn’t go away at all, there could be trouble with the water/humidity sealing of your watch. The simple formula is – When air gets in, so does humidity and dirt. The best way to do it is putting in new gaskets (under the case back and under the crown) every 3 years after soaking it in silicone oil. However, if water has already got into your watch, get it cleaned thoroughly by a professional before changing the gaskets.
A. An empty space under the open sky is where you’ll receive your signals fast. As obstructions increase, so does the signal reception time.
Always face the dial towards the sky before performing a signal update. If inside an enclosed space, move towards an opening; preferably a window. The watch will update itself automatically once a day; it will keep trying to update time and date till a clear reception is received. Also, you can update the watch upon demand. There are buttons assigned for the task.
A. It is best to take the watch off your wrist before an update. This is because the human body absorbs signals making reception difficult.
Signal reception is difficult if you are within 10 meters of a cell phone base station. It is also difficult in rain or under a cloudy sky or in a moving vehicle.
A. Both RC and GPS watches can be adjusted manually.
A. It may be because the reference position of the hands on the watch is incorrect. Stop the second-hand at ‘60’, the minutes hand exactly at 12 and the hour hand exactly to the desired hour marker. Then, update with the signal manually. This should solve the problem. Else, take it to an authorised service provider.
A.The world time setting may be incorrect. Check the world time setting.
The method of the world time setting is different depending on models.
Refer to the instruction manual of the watch to make changes.
A. Check for DST setting. The daylight-saving/summer time setting differs from one calibre to another. Turn it off.
A. Both GPS and radio signal-controlled watches are able to receive time signals from anywhere in the world. However, places as they grow distant from the signal stations (Japan, US, Germany and China) will take longer to receive the signals. Obstructions will slow down both the types.
A. The Citizen watches receive signals from Global Positioning System or GPS satellites, which are also used by various car navigation systems. That apart, they also connect to a Japanese quasi-zenith satellite called Michibiki.
A. It will run as an ordinary quartz watch.
A. A satellite/RC controlled watch will only receive signals, emitting none. It can thus be used in hospitals or inside planes without any concern.
A. Solar cells stop generating electricity if there’s a lack of light and the movement is programmed to shut down the visible activities and avoid losing energy. The seconds-hand stops at 12 and stays that way till light reactivates the watch. Upon reactivation, the watch adjusts itself to the local time.
In the Power Save mode, the watch will track time internally. If it doesn’t adjust itself upon reactivation, it is time for a service.
A. A Divers 200M watch must comply with ISO specs while ordinary WR200 watches are not certified by ISO. In simple words, a Divers 200M watch will go through severe water-resistance tests before being called WR200.
A. Between 1932 and 1978, Citizen used Promethium 147 (Pm, rare earth; a radioactive, fission product of uranium. Half-life:2.6 years.) for their lume. It complied with the safety laws of those times. Citizen’s current proprietary compound is Natulite, which is not radioactive and it charges from UV light. The intense glow lasts for a few hours and decreases over the next few.
A. Wipe the watch with a soft, damp piece of cloth (cotton preferred) when you take it off before bedtime. Do it every night even if you wear your watch to the bed.
You may wash it with water once a month but you need to dry it thoroughly and must not operate on the crowns and the pushers unless the watch is specifically meant for such underwater operations. Wash the watch immediately and thoroughly if it comes in contact with paint thinners, gasoline, alkaline and acidic liquids; especially hydrochloric acid. Dry it well following washing.
A. Crowns and pushers need to be operated upon regularly to keep them moving freely and also to keep dirt from getting tuck at the junctures where they meet the case. If dirt has gone inside the case through the crown and pusher seats, it will need professional help unless DIY is your thing.
A. Yes, but only outdoor charging. Indoors, you can always charge with artificial, bright, cold light. Also, in winter, quartz watches need to be kept warm.
A. Solar, rechargeable cells will last for over a decade unless water gets into your watch.However, every ten years, power-storing capacity of the cells depreciate by 10%.
A. They are, at least for the first 5 years, or until you break the factory seal. However, gaskets are not forever; change them every three years following the first 5 years if your watch mostly finds an urban usage. For outdoor guys, make it at 3 years and then every 2 years. DO NOT forget the silicon oil bath! Insist the professional – if required – buy one and get it done.
For the exteriors, a daily wipe with a soft, slightly damp flannel or cotton piece should do the job. Best if you can polish it to a shine following the wipe.
Leather straps will stay good with any good leather nourishing formula. One application every 2 months should be enough.
Metal bracelets, however; are best cleaned under clear, running water, preferably a little warm; soft, nylon bristles and liquid detergent. Hard water and detergent powders are not recommended. Make sure water/detergent doesn’t remain in any of the junctures where metal meets metal.
Rub synthetic straps with silicone oil once in a few weeks. They allow washing in the same way as you would their metal cousins..
Thorough wiping with dry, soft cloth followed by thorough drying is must.
They differ very slightly. The Miyota caliber 8203 and the 8204.are two movements built very similar; the 8204 is an upgraded 8203, if you want to put it very simply. The 8204 hacks (seconds-hand can be stopped) unlike the 8203 and therefore, allows more precise time setting. The 8204 also receives 2-hours more on its full power-reserve.
However, 8203 wins the accuracy rate at -10sec/+20sec/day against 8204 standing at -20/+40 sec/day.
Reliability is same for both. Difference is in matters of precision and power reserve.
A. Undoubtedly, Citizen delivers excellent wrist presence, some designs being the best within (and maybe, above) the price segment.Citizen stands up in aesthetics and technical quality above most within the affordable segments.
A. To CITIZEN, luxury is not about putting in a lot of flashy, expensive decoration. Luxury – as Citizen defines it – is about elegance, intelligence and holding a holistic respect for the planet and Nature’s Creations on it.
A. Citizen’s initial registration was in 1918 by Swiss watchmaker Rodolph Schmid, in Switzerland. Swiss technology and design backed by Japan until World War II stopped the technology transfer from Switzerland to Japan
Citizen’s one of a kind invention was the world’s first multi-band RC watch, in 1993. It received an atomic signal from one of the atomic clocks strewn around the globe. The time-loss is less than one second in 100,000 years.
The Citizen Watch Group encompasses six unique brands: CITIZEN, Bulova, Arnold & Son, Frederique Constant, Alpina and CAMPANOLA. See which among them are Swiss.
A. Yes. Their Campanola collection is a higher-end sub-brand, much like Grand Seiko. These are usually very complex watches and are hand-assembled by one master watchmaker. Grand Seiko is all about subtlety while Campanola dazzles!
Besides, CITIZEN also introduced the in-house Caliber 0200 mechanical movement built in collaboration with La Joux-Perret S.A, Switzerland. It has detailed finishing and marks one of the ultimate levels in functional beauty. This high-end movements- and module-makers from the late 20th century (Jaquet S.A, La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland) underwent a name change to La Joux-Perret in 2004. They buid some excellent tourbillons featured in the Citizen Campanola Mechanicals.
Citizen also owns Arnold & Son the English brand that came up to create great chronometer-grade movements. These watches are mostly limited edition classics and elegant, high-horology models with some very unusual complications. If things like wandering hour or true-beats seconds interest you, there is some serious technical advancement within architectural designs waiting ahead.