Seiko 2022
  • March 11, 2022
  • Watch Gonzo
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Introduction: Pieces awaiting the pitch

Every March (barring 2020) is when we see horological passion face a crescendo through releases; like at the end of March this year, the trade show Watches & Wonders, Geneva is going to bring a fresh new slew of timepieces of every size, shape and kind.

MovementsNames range from Lange, Cartier and JLC to Grand Seiko, Hublot, IWC and beyond; to Parmigiani Fleurier, Piaget and Patek Philippe. Rolex, too, is a part of the show.  Also TAG, Heuer, Ulysse Nardin and VC shares the ground with the above heavyweights while indie brands like Angelus, Cyrus Genève, Czapek & Cie and Louis Moinet are also quite a few many in count.

One must be particularly attentive about AP in 2022, though. This year marks the 50th anniversary of the iconic AP Royal Oak. There could be very well an entirely different category of sport-lifestyle watches AP might release in the lines of Royal Oak. The same steel luxury but with a sportier style and in that case, Patek’s further efforts with the Nautilus taking a culmination can’t be totally overruled.

We may expect green dials to show up alongside blue ones and shrunken watch sizes to go main stream, the median becoming around 39-40mm. The trend might reflect both from vintage reissues and fresh, forward-looking designs but that would be enough for now. We will continuously update you through the year about new releases, so let’s not waste time anymore anticipating. Instead, let’s get into the loop to see some of the best new releases till now, spread across the entire spectrum of the watch world and will probably show up at W&W. Let’s see what makes them worthy of our time.

Launched pieces that might show up at W&W

Formex New Titanium Field Automatic Watch

  1. Formex New Titanium Field Automatic Watch: Formex might not be a regular household name but they have strong roots in the high-end, value-focused, Swiss watch manufacturing domain. This Swiss brand strongly emphasizes upon the technical features and materials you’re more likely to find in racing automobiles and comes equipped with many of their unique engineering features. All those translate into added functionalities and comfort; like the Case Suspension System that protects the watch face and the calibre SW200-1chronometer-grade movement on one hand and delivers unparalleled wearing comfort on the other.
    The Formex Field Titanium Automatic is one of the most accessible entry-point into the world of serious watches with COSC-certification.
    The 41mm case is crafted from specially-treated Grade 2 titanium i.e. pure Alpha Titanium; the most widely used titanium alloy for industrial purposes. It has an incredible strength-to-weight ratio; hypoallergenic, anti-magnetic, and corrosion-resistant by nature but the real deal is its hardness has been bumped up to 900 Vickers to 900 Vickers. This ensures the distinctive, deep lustre will stay forever without being affected by scratches and dings.
    Formex Field SpecsThe case is fully bead blasted; features angular lines and stands at 10.6mm with a 46.6mm lug-to-lug distance. No-nonsense finishing and spot-on dimensions make this 150m of water resistance watch ideal for everyday wear as much as for times when you decide to spend time in the wilderness.
    Along with the durability and reliability, the Formex field watch boasts of an instantly readable dial with large and legible Arabic hour markers. Moreover, Formex utilizes a sandwich dial with cut-outs (for both the numerals and hour markers) that allow the old Radium Super-LumiNova beneath to shine through. The broad, brushed, syringe-hands are filled with the same lume and the watch sports a colour-matched date wheel at 6 o’clock.
    The distinctive dial colours are Charcoal, Petrol Blue, Automatic Ash Gray, Mahogany Red, Ultra Violet, and Sage Green while the strap is fitted with Formex’s patented carbon fibre composite clasp with 7mm of gradual fine adjustment and a tools-free quick-release system. Prime points: Screw-Down Crown/ Sapphire Crystal/Anti-Reflective (AR) Coating/ Patented Micro-Adjustment System/Tool-Free Change of Straps/Bracelet/WR 15 Bar.

Limited-Edition Divers2. Seiko Prospex Black Series Limited-Edition Divers: Black-cased divers are already a staple in the modern sports-watch landscape and Seiko – one of the very few brands – committed heavily to this style. They got quite a few blacked-out takes on their diver watches – Turtles, for example – and this time too, Seiko aims the same with a quartet of limited edition releases – the Seiko Prospex Black Series – without flinching from their existing, vintage-inspired diver designs. What they add to these watches is a more premium feel.
The design aspects of the 1965, 1968 and the 1970 Willard mechanical divers show clearly in these modern reinterpretations; the clean, squared-off skin diver-style  lugs, sharply bevelled cases and angular lug/case sides form the basis for the new 6R35 releases. All four models offer an ISO-approved 200 meters of water resistance and anti-reflective sapphire crystal, which is a step-up from the typical Hardlex mineral glass.
Seiko Prospex Black SeriesFor three of these watches, Seiko uses the calibre 6R35 movement with a robust 70 hours of power reserve and a beat rate of 21,600 vph beat rate and an unregulated accuracy of -15/+25 seconds per day. The remaining model (SLA) uses the 8L35 automatic movement with a smoother 28,800 vph beat rate but a smaller 50-hour power reserve, offering -10/+15 seconds accuracy per day. Prime points: Detailed finishing, robust construction, classic vintage-inspired silhouettes.

Sapphire Crystal

3. TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E4 Smart-watch: The TAG Heuer TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E4 Smart-watchConnected unveils a new dimension in electronic watch-making and pushes technological boundaries to the extent that it doesn’t have to look back for many years to come. This smart watch combines a futuristic design to the Swiss watch-making heritage within a blend of high-end materials, offering high-tech functions – it is the best example of the aggressiveness the LVMH group has ever demonstrated in the high-tech territory.

The fourth generation of the Connected series is sleeker, more curvaceous; integrates new routines offering you guided workout schedules and multiple dial options that deliver more useful data than before. It has an improved microprocessor and Bluetooth 5.0 connectivity and an updated OS. A No-cost update to Google Wear OS 3 is promised as soon as the new OS is launched.

The Connected comes in both 45mm (stainless steel; matte blasted black DLC titanium w/ polished black ceramic bezel) and 42mm sizes. Both are more streamlined than their predecessor though the Carrera influences are pretty much evident in these. There are no harsh angles; its pushers bring a more mechanical feel with apparently no bezel in vision, bringing an all-dial appearance to the watches. in initial images, and the brand instead opts for an internal chapter ring sporting the same minutes scale. In keeping with this smoother, less aggressive philosophy, both the crown and pushers are visually simplified. The pushers now feature no accent notches while the black rubberized crown, for the 45mm-size model) gives way to a fully polished, steel crown. Both case size options offer an adequate 50 meters of water resistance.

New additions include:

  • An updated OLED digital touch-screen dial: For an improved brightness and contrast under strong sunlight.
  • More numbers of digital dial design options.
  • An expanded TAG Heuer Sports app bringing customizable, animated, guided workout routines.
  • Updated tracking options for swimming, cycling, running, walking and golf.
  • Qualcomm Snapdragon 4100+ smartwatch processor offering a 30% longer battery life than the previous Snapdragon 3100.
  • Full charging from zero-battery to 100% in 90 minutes.

Prime points: A smoother streamlined look, two case-size options, enhanced technicalities, more functionality.

TECH SPECS TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E4 42 MM TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E4 45 MM
Dimensions and Weight 42mm(d) x 13.9mm(h) 45 mm(d) x 13.9mm
Diameter 27.4mm 27.40mm
Screen 1.28-inch OLED
Resolution 416 x 416 pixels
326 PPP
warped sapphire crystal
1.39-inch OLED
Resolution 454 x 454 pixels
326 pixels
flat sapphire crystal
Processor Snapdragon Wear 4100+ Snapdragon Wear 4100+
Connectivity Bluetooth 5.0
Bluetooth 5.0
GeoPositioning Integrated GPS chip
GPS, GLONASS, BeiDou, QZSS, Galileo
Integrated GPS chip
GPS, GLONASS, BeiDou, QZSS, Galileo
Operating System Wear OS 2 Wear OS 2
Resistance 5 ATM 5 ATM
Buttons 3 3
Sensors Heart rate
Heart rate
Extras 1x microphone 1x microphone

Bremoir Lexington Art-Deco-Themed Watch4. Bremoir Lexington Art-Deco-Themed Watch: It’s the first watch from the micro-brand Bremoir from Los Angeles with headquarters at Manhattan and features different dial colours for each variation on the same model (e.g. blue/copper-tone dial in the Lexington Morocco). The Lexington received numerous influences and inspirations from the interior and exterior décor of the Chrysler building at New York, which is evident right away from the stepped-case bezel and then, in others. It is made to suit the 40-above corporate gentleman every bit.

The Bremoir Lexington belongs to an era when Art-Deco was everywhere! Its dial is a familiar representation of the traditional watch dial features with classy Art Deco visual aesthetics. For better viewing in darkness, Super-LumiNova lume has been applied on the overprinted triangles forming arrowheads over the markers and on the upper half of the chiselled points of the hour- and the minute-hands. It’s an improved dial legibility compared to similar watches meant to be worn under urban settings.

Bremoir Lexington Specifications

•Limited Edition
•316L Stainless Steel Case
•20mm Lug Width
•39mm Diameter (without crown)
•48.5mm end to end
•10.7mm top to bottom
•Anti-reflective & scratch resistant sapphire crystals
• 50m/165ft  Water Resistance
• Swiss made, STP 1-11 Automatic (no date) movement:
•28,800 beats per hour
•44-hour Power Reserve

The minute track keeps the dial from turning insipid. Thick, well-executed cardinal numbers bring a classy look. The typefaces are tall, slender just like the Chrysler Building itself.

Note (for the uninitiated): A style of design popular in the 1920s and 1930s. It was marked by stylized forms and geometric designs and was adapted to mass production of both commercial art and artefacts. Everything from household appliances to building designs radiated Art Deco.

The movement inside the Bremoir Lexington Art-Deco-Themed watch is a STP 1-11 (26 jewels, 28.8vph; an ETA 2824-2 clone) with some exquisite ornamentation on its base plate (a beautiful perlage) offering a decent backdrop for a slightly overdone rotor. The crown is also perfectly executed; well-polished and coin-edged, with a pointed cap. The fine lines and elegant design finish on the Lexington Art-Deco-Themed model is as rich and satisfying as Art Deco design itself is.

Prime points: Balances the dial and the case well, four different dial variants (combinations of blue/brown/copper/silver).

Klepcys GMT Retrograde

5. Cyrus Genève Klepcys GMT Retrograde: An all-titanium watch thatmakes use of the complex retrograde function; the GMT hand snaps back once daily in reverse from one 24-mark indication to the other. The extraordinary finishing and decoration of the in-house movement is visible from both front and back. The watch has two crowns – one for setting the minutes and the GMT hours while with the other, utilizes a pusher to advance the local-time hours. That aside, the 3’o clock crown is also used for winding the watch.

The Klepcys GMT Retrograde has been painstakingly designed and is driven by a customised movement; the new CYR708 in-house automatic calibre that has been designed to be both robust and reliable Beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, it can store a total of 55 hours of power reserve. And just like the top, there’s sapphire crystal at the bottom, making it possible to get a view of the movement in action.

 The Klepcys GMT retrograde is the perfect watch for anyone who deals with a different time zone on a daily basis, which could be for business or for travelling. However, there will only be 50 pieces of each version (silver and black) that will be available.


Klepcys GMT Retrograde Specifications

·Local time w/ Retrograde GMT (Second time zone).

· Small seconds

· Rhodium-plated hands.

· Calibre CYR708, self-winding, in-house movement.

·  278 components,  anthracite grey NAC bridge; decorated with curved sunray pattern in satin and microbillé finish.

· Single-block rotor; open-worked with a sunray pattern.

·41 jewels.

· 4 Hz (28,800 vph).

·Swiss lever escapement.

·  Annular balance wheel.

·Winding Barrel w/  colimaçonage  decoration

The minute track keeps the dial from turning insipid. Thick, well-executed cardinal numbers bring a classy look. The typefaces are tall, slender just like the Chrysler Building itself.

Note (for the uninitiated): A style of design popular in the 1920s and 1930s. It was marked by stylized forms and geometric designs and was adapted to mass production of both commercial art and artefacts. Everything from household appliances to building designs radiated Art Deco.

The movement inside the Bremoir Lexington Art-Deco-Themed watch is a STP 1-11 (26 jewels, 28.8vph; an ETA 2824-2 clone) with some exquisite ornamentation on its base plate (a beautiful perlage) offering a decent backdrop for a slightly overdone rotor. The crown is also perfectly executed; well-polished and coin-edged, with a pointed cap. The fine lines and elegant design finish on the Lexington Art-Deco-Themed model is as rich and satisfying as Art Deco design itself is.

Prime points: Balances the dial and the case well, four different dial variants (combinations of blue/brown/copper/silver).

Upcoming Watches that might show up at W&W

Vacheron Constantin Overseas1. Vacheron Constantin Overseas: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas is in the same league with the AP Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus. All of them bear the Gérald Genta (Swiss watch designer and artist) mark. Or, you can say it’s the successor of the VC 222 (from 1977; marks the brand’s 222nd anniversary). The Overseas originally was designed by the lesser-known Jörg Hysek (employed with Rolex for four years).

The current developments of the VC Overseas are probably because those already own a Nautilus and/or a Royal Oak and still itching for another luxury sports watch of equal calibre (in every aspect). It is a good fit for someone looking for some discreetness; eye-catching yet not readily recognizable. The Overseas looks great and nothing like something else; much less prone to be identified right away. A very subtle watch making for a great choice when you want your watch to whisper rather than scream or shout. The next big thing in its class and in the watch world – you can say without an iota of doubt!

You may choose an Overseas from various configurations, ranging from time-only to perpetual calendars, almost the same variations available from the Nautilus and Royal Oak.

Rolex Milgauss2. Rolex Milgauss: That Rolex Milgauss is getting an update in 2022 is around for quite some time now and chances are 50:50. If Rolex keeps Milgauss as a part of its 2022 catalogue, you can stay rest assured that you’ll see a major overhaul inside (new-generation antimagnetic movement?) as well as significant aesthetic updates. It is expected in stainless steel; that way, the Rolex Milgauss will no doubt be one of the hottest new releases this year.

However, if Rolex chooses to discontinue the Milgauss, we’ll have to bid goodbye to one of the most unusual and colourful Rolexes of all time. We’ll miss those bright oranges, greens and uniquely-shaped seconds-hands. It’s truly unlike any other Rolex; too unconventional and the success of the new, colourful Oyster Perpetual indicates that the new Milgauss will be on-board with fun and vibrant vibes.

Tudor Black Bay Fifty Eight GMT3. Tudor Black Bay Fifty Eight GMT: The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 39mm is the vintage version of the Black Bay 41mm, which was again a modernised version of another Tudor vintage, the BB58. It’s something like a serpent eating on its own tail.

The original Black Bay based heavily upon the vintage Submariner and gave out some clever visual tricks through its modern proportions and quality. It was heftier than the Submariner and the extra metal added more robustness. It had a larger diameter, a thicker case, a bracelet created in modern materials with modern technology; a movement contemporary and robust and integrated many of its signature elements. It featured snowflake hands; a domed, gilt dial; a polished, bevelled case and a riveted bracelet. It was a revival watch – a vintage Submariner taste in a modern package.

So Tudor vintage-d this version of this watch with a smaller, thinner case; a slightly different movement  (Calibre MT5652 (COSC) and an aged-looking dial/bezel, creating a modern interpretation of a vintage watch that comes closer than ever to the original Submariner watches (from Tudor or Rolex), both in terms of style and proportion. But, the second time zone reading it gives is an extra. The Cal. MT5652 is a mainstream automatic movement; a modern design created by Rolex. It uses a variable-inertia balance with micro-adjustment screw and a silicon-made balance spring based on Rolex technology, including the full balance bridge and free-sprung Microstella balance wheel.Surely, a watch with a movement you can wear for life!

Omega Seamaster Diver 300m4. Omega Seamaster Diver 300m: Omega announced a new Seamaster with both a green ceramic bezel insert and wave dial. The greening is the current trend in the watch industry and Omega didn’t hesitate to jump in. They kept the dimensions as it is (42 mm x 13.56 mm; 50mm lug-to-lug) and used 316L stainless steel for the case and the bracelet; the same screw-and-pin arrangement and extendable fold-over rack-and-pusher with extra diver extension with a new integration to the case. The new Seamaster is fitted with a newly patented, conical, helium-escape valve on the case flank.

The in-house Calibre 8800 Master Chronometer movement beats at 3.5Hz and features:

  1. A silicon balance spring.
  2. A free-sprung, blackened balance wheel.
  • A Co-Axial escapement.
  1. 35 jewels.
  2. 55-hour power reserve.
  3. Rhodium-plated bridges and components.
  • Geneva waves in arabesque.
  • Blackened screws and barrel.

Most Anticipated Models of 2022

Patek Philippe's Nautilus 5711 Reissue1. Patek Philippe’s Nautilus 5711 Reissue: A lot of people are wishful about the arrival of the Nautilus 6711 (well, that should be the logical name for the descendant of the 5711, isn’t it?) and their expectations are rising every passing day. They can’t be blamed either; for earlier, statements made by the brand indicate towards one.

What might the 6711 (an imaginary name, remember that) bring? A titanium case, that’s for sure; alongside a bit of a bolder look that’s consistent with the previous generation Nautilus from 2006. Patek so far only marginally renewed the design of the original reference 3700 from 1976 and notable changes were due. Still, aesthetic changes in the 6711 are expected to be only marginally different from the 5711; say, neither steel, nor titanium but white gold!

The low profile we don’t want to change. A 8mm thickness is jusr fine with most of us; maybe the bracelet would change? We’d like to see one with a micro-adjustment system or with a comfort extension on the clasp; also an instantly- interchangeable strap/bracelet changing system to go with.

The main evolution – it goes without saying – is definitely going to show up in the movement.  The 5711 models came equipped with the in-house Calibre 26-330 S C till 2018 and then switched over to 324SC in 2019, offering stop-seconds, the Gyromax balance and the Spiromax balance spring. The drawback was a short power reserve, ranging between 35 hours and 45 hours. In 2022, Patek Philippe should be able to offer something better and that too without compromising on the watch’s thinness, just like AP has done it with the calibre 7121.

However, even if this Nautilus reissue sees the daylight, it won’t be a watch for the masses.

Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0

2. Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0 (1970s LED driver’s watch Reissue): GP too rides the vintage craze in 2022 and the Casquette – a cult-favourite from the 1970s – shall most probably make a comeback! The retro-futurist design of this limited-edition re-release is a noteworthy digital piece that looks more like something that popped out of Star Trek. Boxy; equipped with black-and-red LED display within a scratch-resistant ceramic and Grade 5 titanium case; its return after four and a half decades has been retooled to be lightweight and hypoallergenic. Even the bracelet is ceramic!

A digital watch might be, but be prepared to spend way more than what you would for a G-Shock. Limited to just 820 pieces, it’s a watch that bridges the past with the future.

IWC's Ingenieur 1970 Reissue3. IWC’s Ingenieur 1970 Reissue: The IWC Ingenieur didn’t prove much of a success during the ‘70s but in 2022, it seems the Ingenieur might pretty well become a game However, for that the original bit-too-round shape now must become a little square-ish and this integrated-bracelet watch – overhauled last time in 2017 – redesigned by Gerald Genta gets all the sporty touches offering legitimate provenance at a very competitive price.



With the new reality that is emerging in the wake of the post-pandemic world, change is evident not only in the realms of politics, economics, business and science but also when it comes to culture and fashion. And as we know time goes by so fast, the need for new means of counting the hours in style increases manifold. Because, the watch is no longer just about checking the time; it is also about how you check the time.

Our list above will bring you enough means to do that. Let your time and timekeeping device be different from the rest – nor just in 2022 but also beyond this year.


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Certain watches are evergreen and were and are always in demand. The list starts with AP Royal Oak and stretches all the way down to the Casio G-Shock; however, the Omega Aqua Terra ‘Beijing 2022 (themed around the Paralympics) can be arguably given the position for the time being. After that, it will be something else and we’ll talk about it then.