Choosing watch movements – Jap or Swiss?

Rookie collectors often override the movement and bang their money down once the look and style is chosen. Almost all of us (barring them from royal lines) have gone into this exquisite spree only to realize later huge funds gone into nothingness. So put aside the money for some more time; let’s talk on choosing the movements and those that case them.

Things became a bit more complicated when the new, entry-level hack/manual winding Seiko movements locked horns with Citizen’s Miyota and the Swiss ETA. Now we know all three are reliable and accurate; it’s the price variation that perplexes. Their predecessors also ruled a sizeable chunk of the watch market worldwide, so while you don’t lose anything for your money, you don’t gain either. To gain, in its real sense, you need to get all the models with all of those movements within.

The ETA2824 is a de-facto Swiss automatic movement that third-parties/non-manufactures use. Asian contingents Seiko and Citizen (also Orient, though not as largely) are direct competition to the standard grade Swiss ETA; Seiko’s 4R- and 6R-xx and Citizen’s Miyota 9015 are more refined; feature hacking, hand-winding and allows more accurate adjustments for an enhanced reliability, albeit with lower bph. Scheduled maintenances for all three are same and components not too pricey. But here comes the unheard.

Rotor noise is detectable in the 9015 when you hold your ear pretty close to the case but an ETA rotor is actually soundless. The sound part; however, doesn’t affect the 9015 in any way. Both designs have proved adequate and time seems to be in their favor.

Note: Speaking about the Seiko 6R15 movement particularly, its specs are same as the ETA2824 but in real life, official timekeeping differentials differ although not very drastically. If being two seconds behind or ahead bothers you (not talking about the Special Ops guys), then hold on till you accumulate for an ETA. Else, Seiko engines are all right. Seiko stores more power in its reserve than the ETA; lot cheaper and also winds better. It’s less gritty; the lower beat means less wear; however, if a high beat is what you can give your right eye for, then go for the 6R20.

Below are few recommendations but not limited to any particular movement. These will help you to get used to further comparisons and look beyond the few mentioned here.

1. Entry-level Swiss watches housing the ETA movement.
2. Hamilton Automatic Ventura XXL Elvis Anniversary edition
3. Hamilton Jazzmaster Seaview Automatic 
4.  Hamilton Khaki Field Titanium 
5. High grade Jap watches, Swiss-equivalent
6. Seiko Automatic Presage
7.  Seiko Automatic Alpinist Watch 
8. Seiko Cocktail Time 
9.  Citizen Automatic Professional Divers
10.  Citizen Automatic