Ask Gonzo ’bout Watches (XXXVIII) – A question ’bout bare minimums

Q.
Dear Gonzo, 
I want my first watch to be a skeleton or with a semi-skeleton face and a sapphire glass would be too good. It must be a good fit for strict- and semi formal dressing, I’ll also try to avoid numbers on the dial (if possible) for a cluttered look is something I can’t stand.

But someone also told me that skeleton and semi-skeleton faces are tacky. What do you think? Is there an everyday use skeleton watch that meets my needs?

A.
It’s a distinct pleasure to hear from you; one of the very few queries that don’t have the conspicuous “- Tell me the best an ‘X’ amount of dollars can get me” feel to it. Even if it’s there, it’s very subtle and undertone-d and can be easily ignored. But it’s enough to make me feel beleaguered once more and certainly, its underlying tone for a recommendation plays a major role towards that feel. Watches – and in that case, everything dapperly must wrap around your persona and it’s not about the wearer wrapping around the desired piece.

So, first of all, ask yourself: “Does it fit my way of life?” If the answer is a definite “YES”, then read on. If not, then come back several moons later.

Let’s assume you have it all to don a skeleton watch. Skeletons give an impression of being the top boss (especially those without hour- and minute markers) and while you don’t necessarily need to own an organisation or set-up to go with that, you definitely need that top boss aura around, in its positive sense.

There are quite a few affordable skeletons around; so, let’s get down to business.

Fossil, Invicta, Stuhrling – all have their own versions and varieties. Ideally, get one from each and top up your collection of skeletons with the Hamilton American Classics Ventura Automatic. It’s no one-day job; even those with ample money to get all of them at once must also slow down; wear, cherish and start loving the feel of a quality skeleton before going whole hog. Building a collection slow but steadily makes your heart grow fonder of what you collect.

 

For very dressy options, you may take a look at the Fossil Grant Automatic Navy Blue Skeleton Dial ME3102 Men’s Watch and for something very gorgeous – the Stuhrling Original Emperor’s Grandeur Automatic Dual Time.

For less dramatic watches i.e. the ones more simplistically designed, the Invicta Specialty Silver Skeleton Dial  and the Stuhrling Original Winchester Automatic are fine choices.

Enough of speaking about the little delights! Now, if you must excuse, it’s time for Sir Paul’s early musical career recap and something equally smooth to go down the throat.

Watch(es) mentioned in this post are listed below. Click to see details and buy them:

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Trans Ocean Limited Edition: The upgraded Seiko Diver

The recent months have shown the general watch buyers overcoming their set barriers. They have learned to defy the limits – even for price – and blimey! I’m so happy not to answer a limited and repeating range of questions earlier readers sadistically used to come up with. They often used to interpret Gonzo more as a salesman than a hobbyist and that made it difficult putting across the point the way several of these people wanted it to be: A shortcut to portray themselves as seasoned watch collectors right from day one! But to realise no particular watch is a thoughtless product or that expertise can never be obtained through shortcuts – be it in making the watch or collecting it –is after all, a matter of realising how it is done.
Thus, I stress more upon providing info on the way how things just work out fine with points to consider rather than with the rules of thumb to be followed strictly while buying a watch; I really don’t see a need to become the Watch Nazi! Oftentimes (and more often than not), my replies went harsh but I must also thank them readers for their generosity to completely overlook the rude part most of the times. Grateful to that; I present the Seiko Automatic Prospex 200M Diver Trans Ocean “Limited Edition” SBDC043!

I would readily put the Seiko Automatic Prospex 200M Diver Trans Ocean “Limited Edition” SBDC043 as a nice men’s watch for all sorts of budgets, including pathetically mortal ones for an A1 grade sports-luxury piece. It’s a new model released in 2016 under the Prospex line – the professional specifications line with ISO certifications. It’s far better than many of the overpriced and gaudy varieties that you first need to grow a taste for appreciating them better. With the Seiko Automatic Prospex 200M Diver Trans Ocean “Limited Edition” SBDC043, there are no such hard rules. The Seiko Automatic Prospex 200M Diver Trans Ocean “Limited Edition” SBDC043 is rather, a guide to the further development of one’s taste in watch wearing.
How relevant is the Seiko Automatic Prospex 200M Diver Trans Ocean “Limited Edition” SBDC043 depends on what your needs are. If it is practicality, the fun-to-wear factor and ubiquity, then the Seiko Trans Ocean Ltd. Edition has many a reason for making you bend towards it. Practicality endorses extreme reliability and sturdiness, both in and outside. The Calibre 6R15 Automatic Movement makes it possible for this A+ grade, less-expensive Seiko Automatic Prospex 200M Diver Trans Ocean “Limited Edition” SBDC043 sports watch to exist.
To conclude: The Trans-Ocean is certainly not something that resembles expensive, haute-horlogerie pretensions but rather the one that attends to the characteristics of an individual and his watch-wearing instances.

Watch(es) mentioned in this post are listed below. Click to see details and buy them:

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Newsletter : Stuhrling Original Watches on Sale

     This week we have sale on all Stuhrling Original Watches.
We have a further 5% off on them with Coupon Code:STUHRLING

Use Following Coupon Code For Additional 5% Discount

“STUHRLING”

Free Worldwide Shipping*

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Newsletter : Gift Ideas for Her – A watch makes a timeless gift


Kate Spade New York Gramercy Gold Tone Stainless Steel 1YRU0009 Women’s Watch
Stuhrling Original Vogue Memoire Automatic Swarovski Crystals 710.03 Women’s Watch
Orient Automatic Fashionable Sapphire Crystal ER2E001T Women’s Watch
Fossil Riley Multifunction Gold Tone Crystal Dial ES3203 Women’s Watch
Michael Kors Chronograph Crystal MK2249 Women’s Watch
Seiko Premier Chronograph Diamonds Dial Indices SNDV59P2 Women’s Watch

Free Worldwide Shipping*

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Gonzo goes SOLAR!

Readers,

Let’s start on a simple note. ‘Tis Watch Gonzo who writes for this blog; not Watch-Guru! Occasionally, people ask for his opinion but his replies are just his own realisations and not the verdict. It’s true that his pen gets exceedingly sharp with few but don’t blame him for that. Some queries just don’t deserve a better response. He welcomes varied perceptions, thoughts and expressions (heck, he even loves some of them!) but not the absolute dogmas certain inquirers throw at him and try to push them down his neck. He hates being told what his opinions should be; more so when they think it’s the other person’s easy way to put forth an own thought in public for easy acceptance. For – as told before – he is the Watch Gonzo; not Watch-Guru!

The qualm was about solar energy as a reliable source of power for watches. – “Come again?” You heard it right – R-E-L-I-A-B-L-E! Our man was worried what would happen on cloudy days.

Till here, it’s funny – and yes, even a bit silly too. Not what he gets into after that. I couldn’t quite make out what got him more cranky; that why had it been named ‘Solar’ when it can charge in all sorts of lights or the ‘wrong nomenclature by manufacturers’ for a watch that charges with all the types. If it’s ‘Solar’ then it must need sunrays and I, WG, must make people understand that.

I’m not up to the task. Anyone who would like to carry the idea forward may please do so. Haven’t read too many things more hilarious than the Mall Ninja over years; would love to read from the Watch-Ninja.

But our man did ask about which one to be the better of the lot. Tissot, Citizen, Seiko and Casio; he knows the brands well and has read thoroughly about many of the models. From the earlier, downright funny and strange models to the some of the most recent pieces of marvel, he did a pretty good homework upon some of the most intricate and serious, solar pieces of horology. Yet, his question, despite the ‘wrong naming’ part, is who makes a decent, low-budget solar watch.

Preferences aside, IMHO, Citizen is good only with their upper-market models; while Seiko is also good with their lower-end. That’s quite natural, for Seiko was the first one to devise a ‘Solar’; Citizen’s Eco-Drive technology stemmed from it. But Citizen honed their ‘Solar’ skill further to design some very interesting watches under $1000 whereas for Seiko, it wasn’t so, until very recently.

That’s because Seiko, formerly, was heart and soul into Kinetic and Spring-Drive. Still, apart from the heavy-weights Astron and Prospex, Seiko offers the Pilot’s, Monster and a large variety of field chronographs on the ‘Solar’ side.

Watch(es) mentioned in this post are listed below. Click to see details and buy them:

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Diesel: The Timeframe Temptations

Diesel is for the equally bold and rebellious without the slightest intent to follow trends. Setting one instead is easier for both the brand and its wearers. When you wear a Diesel watch, you are wearing something that revamps the way you perceive fashion. The Daddy collection (Mr, Little and Mini) is fine to start with and helps you get a taste of how functionality and style can cohabit in an effortlessly easy manner. Or, in other words, blend finesse to practicality.
Distinct or unique – whichever way you see it – Diesel’s looks voice a constant move forward and ahead. So, they are not just watches but timeframes. These Diesel Timeframes are a reflection of the confidently assertive presence of the brand in the fashion arena. Still, those large, loud and ever-colourful shapes are more than just skin-deep; there are proper quality standards backing that up.

Following usual watch designing rules never found way into the blaze-new-grounds approach of Diesel. It shows the least through the Overflow series, in which, Diesel had to tame down their instincts a lot to make an acceptable office-wearable. The Overflow; however, is still oversized compared to standard dimensions; got a versatile twist and creates an eye-catching combination that’s miles from the ordinary. For outdoors or party purposes, you’ll be spoilt for choice.

Diesel wears many faces apart from the Overflow. There are sporty, simple-casuals and ultra-casuals; futuristic and elegant designs are also covered by Diesel. Amongst the most popular are the Mega Chief and the Master Chief; nothing quite gets any better than these exquisite watches as all-round casual accessories. Some of them make for the ideal Friday Dressing piece and unless strictly formal, most of them can fit in seamlessly to just any occasion or setting.

Expect to turn some heads with these pieces of beautiful craft with an edge above the rest among fashion watch brands. Even the plain analog Master Chief oozes the oomph factor more than any of the rest in its class! It’s chiefly due to certain retro design elements (even for the futuristic Mega Chiefs; see one here) that have always been – still are and will be – in vogue! Simplicity wed to sophistication and this handsome piece was born. Surely adds a dapper finish touch to any ensemble. For some of the best pieces, check out the DZ43… line. You’ll also find a Diesel Overflow Quartz Chronograph coming under it. They are more accessible than many of the other fashion watch makers and also deliver a far better construction and quality, which is also why all Diesel-s are spectacular and dynamic at the same time. Want versatile statement pieces for less; sporty or an elegant party-wear, Diesel Timeframes always meet your needs.

Watch(es) mentioned in this post are listed below. Click to see details and buy them:

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Newsletter: Diesel Watches on Sale – Additional discount code inside!

DIESEL WATCHES

This week we have a sale you just cannot ignore. On sale are all our Diesel watches – yes, ALL of them. With an additional 5% off on all Diesel watches with coupon code DIESEL. And with Free Worldwide Shipping and Free DHL Express 2-4 days shipping to most countries as always!

Free Worldwide Shipping*

 

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Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar Analog Digital:  A new kind of Smart watch

Anadigi-s are aplenty in the watch market and Tissot too has something to offer in that realm. Swiss or Japanese, there are numerous models to choose from but then again, we compare those models keeping Tissot out. The T-Touch Solar Expert anadigi is a kind of its own. It happened because Tissot didn’t rest on its laurels with the T-Touch. It rectified its earlier technical issues and advanced to the Sea-Touch, the T-Touch II, the T-Touch Expert…the Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar is their next big step.

Tissot faced quite a few complains about how they power their watch. The Japanese had for long in the market with their solar powered watches, something the Swiss industry didn’t pay attention till sometime back. Solar power generation had been a tough factor in the competition and we do not like opening the case. Battery change is a dreaded object to many. Tissot solves the problem with an ETA. Both being parts of the Swatch Group, compatibility factors are class-A.

2013 was when Tissot debuted with a working prototype of the solar-powered T-Touch Expert. Evntually, it became the top-of-the-line T-Touch model, without the hassles of battery changes. That means – case stays intact! It’s a big bonus to fans that could finally enjoy fully wearing a T-Touch in its factory-assembled condition throughout their life.

The movement in the Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar is the ETA E84.301. The finest T-Touch movement till date, it doesn’t just add light-power generation to an existing movement. But here, the question is – What took Tissot so long to come up with it? Here’s why: The T-Touch system needed a larger reserve for it consumes more power. Tissot wanted to ensure a great experience, so they took time to build a flawless and fail-proof Solar movement.

The new T-Touch touch-screen system continues to use an AR-coated sapphire crystal, activated through a button. It’s a way more improved responsiveness you’ll notice and the hands now move extremely fast. But, the solar power generation is the icing on the cake!

What functions does it have? Time-telling and perpetual calendar apart, there’s a rapid access second time-zone feature. Local and other-time-zone are swappable from ana to digi or otherwise.

For the Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar, the digital screen is larger and crisper than ever. The black LCD screen with white numerals is a big reason behind. The LCD blends with the dial seamlessly leaving no sign of two-getherness. This slickness is an integral part of a Swiss watch.

The bezel (no more the rotating navigational bezel; now it uses Azimuth) has all the various functions and their respective zones marked; the Meteo representing the barometer. The Compass, Altimeter, Countdown timer, Chronograph and Alarm need no explanation.

Watch(es) mentioned in this post are listed below. Click to see details and buy them:

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Seiko SNKK  – The jack of all trades watch

The Seiko SNKK all throughout, has been an oft-overlooked Seiko 5. It’s quite tough grasping the legacy unless you know the Seiko 5 history. The completely clueless can read it from official Seiko 5 website later on; for now, you are in a discussion about a performance, reliability and lasting of a better standard than you get at this price range.

The beauty of the Seiko 5 is it adorns the wrists of enthusiasts and casual wearers alike. Most of these casual owners are ignorant about what’s beyond the case back and most of them don’t get to know that ever in their life. For as long as something runs; we don’t bother to check. Neither maintain.

The Seiko 5 – especially the JDM Seiko – will take been thrown under the wheels. It will outrun any other watch in its category also by its lifespan, making it a kind of an industry leader among the daily-rough-use, inexpensive, mechanical automatic watches. Put the SNKK on when it’s rigorous, manual labour ahead and it shall stay faithful on the face of physical shocks.

Its accuracy is definitely not chronometer-accurate; but unless you are in an ambush or a raid, you can bear with 10 to 20 seconds of delay or gain a day(max).

The aesthetics and design of the Seiko 5 is not the top of the class. It has just been rounded off well to an incredibly versatile form with the basic attributes the Seiko 5 (auto-wind, single-window day/date, WR, recessed crown and overall durability) intact. The construction material and quality make it tough as a nail!

The Seiko 5 SNKK series experiments with colours and their combinations. Confidence, endurance and comfort – all rolled into one! A good example of a tool watch, a go-to or a default watch – it wraps around your dressing style unlike many that need specific ways of dressing.

On aesthetic grounds, the Seiko 5 SNKK wins due to factors like its timeless looks and versatility while functionality and affordability defines its market presence. A piece made notable by the modern, horological history, the SNK runs on the caliber 7S26, 21 jewels movement; an economical, tough and extremely reliable alternative to high-priced quartz going into a field watch. Plus, this one doesn’t need to depend on expire-prone batteries.

The Seiko SNKK is ideally the first automatic one should buy. The Seiko 5 SNKK qualifies for that and it will dishearten you not. Some of them are made in Malaysia but it’s the equal amount of care and precision that goes into their making. The result is a solid, reliable brand of timepieces that bears not just the name of its manufacturer but also its goodwill.

Watch(es) mentioned in this post are listed below. Click to see details and buy them:

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The smart-watch scuttlebutts

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It’s a fashion show, you got a ticket to watch the catwalk and you came across a casual outfit you don’t mind giving your front two teeth for. Sadly, the model wasn’t wearing a watch. So, what do you choose if you want it to go with the outfit?

Chunky or chic isn’t really an answer here; you need to be more specific. A smart-watch maybe? Not really, for smart-watches, in my humble opinion, are more of a work-gear than being watches. And – not every casual outfit is meant for the smart-watch. It also applies the other way round. Most are not savvy about the pairing and almost always end up with a chic-ticker that often tells everything but the time.

You’ve guessed it right; the fashion versus watch quandary continues. The Apple Watch triggered the debate higher some three or four years back and the fire is still burning and it will keep burning in the future, I hope.

The primary thought that shaped the smart-watch was about revolutionising tech wearable. A watch, how much ever vintage, is still a piece of technology as opposed to the mainstream idea of only digital devices are fit to be bestowed with the honour of TECH. So no more telling just the time and its different aspects; they wanted the watch to do everything from checking heartbeats to emails and social media accounts; remember your schedule and alert you for all that it does, if you want it to. Playing games and maybe bringing the kettle to a boil – we’re sure we’ll see things like that in the days to come. Dread the day they shall start making babies! May God save us all!

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But! If tech had been the only criteria, then the delights of wearing the Grand Seiko or Longines wouldn’t even exist! Some notoriously bad mannered buyers will anyway shout at me; some might even text or take derisory selfies to go with their posts – you might do the same for your watches.

Yawn! Is this going anywhere? No, for it’s not meant to be. I was feeling particularly lazy this evening, so was trying to structure my thoughts. The only difference with the other times is I decided to keep records of the flow. There’re no hard and fast rules about reaching a conclusion when your thoughts are let loose. However, it’s notable that bare wrists all in a sudden became the rage at Milan’s autumn-winter 2015 shows.

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Did fashion drop it as one less thing to worry about? Could be; else the comeback wouldn’t have been possible. Fashion, IMHO, just realized its incomplete stature without the watch to accompany. Smart phones; here don’t stand a chance!

Watch(es) mentioned in this post are listed below. Click to see details and buy them:

 

 

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A Monster with Pro-Specs

The Monster returns shedding the old skin and with new innards. It got a facelift done too! In a word, it’s more socially acceptable this time and doesn’t need you to dress up as a muscleman every time.

There’s nothing more that you could write about the Monster. Years of user experiences have narrated it all; what you witnessed newly might have been earlier by someone else. The venerable Monster!

Monster was kind of the Prospex of its times. Monster alike, the Prospex too matches up with the most demanding of environments and win. Only greater – and better!

SRP583K1_LRG.jpg (600×720)

Quick facts:

  • The Monster line of watches from Seiko is the least expensive of pro-grade watches running on quality automatic mechanical movements. It is fused with the Prospex traits to make it doubly strong against the rigors of regular harsh treatments. Surprisingly, all those good things didn’t hike the price much.
  • The remodelled Prospex line debuted at the Baselworld 2014 to be offered globally.
  • The Prospex Air-Dive Monster was the most interesting watch within the category.
  • The black-n’-blue and black-‘n-gold versions were made available worldwide and today, only a few remain. The rest already found their respective owners.

The reality:

Those who claim that diver watches are all about being monstrous (in size) have not had seen these Air Diver-s before. At a 42.3 mm case diameter, it is just on the verge of getting monstrous. The dial has ample space to accommodate the signature, large lume-filled hour markers with ease and still leave space for the eyes to hover. The shark-tooth markers are prominent, both by itself and together with the large, highly-readable, luminous hour and minute hands. The central seconds hand; however, is only marked at and around its tip. Covering all is the Seiko proprietary Hardlex crystal. This has been hardened to be difficult to break; form cracks or shatter.

The case is a solid chunk of steel with a screwed-in back. This aids in its overall WR capabilities. The 4 o’clock crown eliminates any chance of biting your wrist, always making to the sides. The knurled surface increases the grip incredibly. The markings too glow in the dark, making underwater reading bit easier than the rest.

SRP581K1_LRG.jpg (600×720)

The SRP connotation mostly indicates the calibre 4R36 movements, making up the entire Seiko Sports 5 Automatic series. The 3Hz self-winder tucks in 24 jewels and holds 41-hours in its power reserve. You can stop the seconds-hand and also hand wound. The Prospex Air Diver 200 m Monster has similar specs as with the other Prospex watches, with the 4R36 making it suitable also for hard, field work. The black PVD treated stainless steel case is also one of the most interesting!

Watch(es) mentioned in this post are listed below. Click to see details and buy them:

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Newsletter : Seiko Monster 200m Divers Automatic Watches on Sale!

This week we have on sale 2 fantastic Seiko Prospex
Automatic Monster Diver Watches.
We have a further 10% off on them with Coupon
Code: MONSTER. The watches on sale are the Blue Monster
SRP581K1 with A Rubber Strap and the
Black Monster SRP583K1 with Black Ion Plated Stainless
Steel Case and Bracelet. Click here to check them out.

Enter this coupon code at checkout:

FREE WORLDWIDE SHIPPING*

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Skagen Holst multifunction dress watches: Slim, light, comfortable!

SKW6176_LRG.jpg (600×720)

When Gonzo joined the team, his romance for the mechanical automatic dress watches knew no bounds. It still doesn’t but well, his tendency to shun aside everything that’s not mechanical has given way to appreciation for watches (as a matter of fact, of everything in life) that deserve it. Now Gonzo too agrees that Quartz is more than just fine when it’s truly well-done. Whether it’s our good company or an exposure to many different kinds are responsible I can’t comment – maybe both – but in my subconscious, I can feel my thoughts have also become bit Gonzo-istic. Maybe that’s normal and I believe in give and take. So, I must not stretch that any further.

That is – however – not the point. The point is – Gonzo got pretty much carried away when the Holst-s unfolded! The recent shipment brought some impressive Skagen models among which – and we all agree – the Holst is the supreme! The quartz movement making it run is a technological marvel. Precise timekeeping with added flairs for a very affordable sum – Skagen’s simple, sleek, sharp and clean looks is perhaps what Orient would have made ideally had it dealt in  quartz. The Holst-s have a lot going on in!

One complaint with the mechanical, automatic dress watches is you have to be concerned about keeping them wound all the time in order to keep them going. With quartz watches, it’s the designs. Skagen seems to have noticed that for the Holsts’ designs are more inclined towards creating a mechanical appearance, so that the classic dress watch becomes hassle-free in its use; at least for a few years time.

The 40mm diameter looks great on most wrists. Skagen’s very modern, overall design philosophy, this time leans more towards classic and create a dial layout with the noon and halfway very well-balanced! There’s a fair influence of the IWC Portuguese chrono into it. But here Skagen plays the twist!

This is no chronograph. The top sub-dial is the day-indicator while the bottom one tells the date. Eliminating the square, crescent, circular or rectangular cut-outs for day/date windows makes it easier for the curves going. The subtle textures and tipped sub-dial hands and the rest of the nice attentions to details also flare out uninterrupted.

A quick changing for the day and the date are possible by turning the crown at different positions (clicks out). Or, you may keep turning the hands 24-hours at a time for a long play.

Be it the steel mesh bracelet or the nicely grained 20mm leather band, both cut straight across with the lugs. They do not butt-out (how much ever snugly that might be up against the case) but maintain that bit of a gap – between watch band and case – that looks less hyperodynamic (hyper, aero dynamic) and more relaxed.

At 10mm thickness, it’s certainly not the thinnest. But they are suit-worthy, smart and to some extent – casual!

Watch(es) mentioned in this post are listed below. Click to see details and buy them:

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Calibre VK63: Classic know-how partners modern designs

The whole CW team turned very enthusiastic when this new calibre VK63 flew in with the new lot. We’ve heard bits and pieces ‘bout its novelty, energy-efficient, modular construction, but so far didn’t see how it manifests itself. IMHO, it manifests damn well. Inspired by 70’s sporty style, Seiko gives it a slight, modern twist on its sombre elegance.

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The Seiko analog quartz story started in 1983.  It made well-known Swiss brands (ETA, Ronda and ISA, most of all) focus on affordable quartz versions, but LeCoultre and Piguet focused on developing expensive, state-of-the-art, hybrid mechanical chronographs – the expensive leCoultre 630 and Piguet 1270. These had twin quartz tuning forks and step-motors and were dubbed mecaquartz (or mecha-quartz, as you prefer) but vanished when mechanical watches returned with full glory. Seiko decided to try it out and develop an energy-efficient, mecha-quartz mechanism using the JLC and Piguet principles. As a result, the J. Springs chronograph function is extremely accurate and smooth, with dedicated step-motors to drive the chronograph mechanisms individually. But used for 60 minutes a day, it reduces a-third from the total battery life of 3 years. Seiko also calls this calibre as the 6T63.

The VK63 was borne out of Seiko’s aim to create a newly different style of automatic movements to come out as bolder, finer accessories. Therefore, the dashing azure face and the bright gold accents; crown and pushers! Its hybrid mecha-quartz movement uses the quartz for regular timekeeping and a mechanical module for the chronograph. That’s a lot to contain within a 13.5 mm by 5.10mm module.

The Motor Sports Chronographs reflect the sports pedigree of the J-Springs Prestige Sports collection. They are made for the extremes, away from homely comforts. Smooth looks with a rugged build!

Peek inside and you’ll find levers, hammers and wheels doing their job. This is the reason why you get that crisp, mech-style snick from the chrono-pushers and not an abrupt, cheap click. The chrono has a smart take-off and procedds in 1/5th seconds increments. There’s no difference with a mechanical chronograph.

BFH007_LRG.jpg (600×720)The VK series movements (including the Tokyo Style Chronographs) have the small running seconds always at 6 o’clock, but the 63 varies otherwise from the 67. The 60-minute counter@9 and the 24-hour@3 are typically 63 while the 67 moves the chronograph’s minute-measure counter at 12 and the 12-hour recorder at 9. For the VK83, the 20-minutes chronograph sub-dial is at 9 while the 24 hour hand is at 3.

So, what’s the big thing about it apart from Seiko introducing a whole new concept? Nothing else than the VK movements have opened a whole new range of interesting J. Springs models. Stay tuned, there are more to follow!

Watch(es) mentioned in this post are listed below. Click to see details and buy them:

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Ask Gonzo about Watches – XXXVII – How reliable is the calibre Y676?

Q. Dear Gonzo!

Of late I noticed you guys are stocking the J. Spring watches. There are some mechanical models that made me almost reach for my plastic but since I made a resolution not to go for making another impulse purchase, I’m writing to you. Also because I found out that the J. Spring watches use a calibre Y676; this is something alien to me. I haven’t found much information about this particular movement, so; would you mind giving us some lowdown on it? I have made quite a few purchases in the past from elsewhere and was disappointed to see most of my choices turning bad within sometime (between 2 months and two years); this time, I don’t want another heartbreak to follow.

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A. I intentionally keep the models out of the context this time. I’m confident that your fine sense of aesthetics is going to guide you in choosing what will suit you most and Gonzo doesn’t like to tell others how his/her watch should look like. However, with the movements (and a few other technicalities), there’s a certain degree of guidance I always try to provide; it’s my readers who have bestowed this certain right upon me. So, let’s go back a few steps in time and find out a movement that didn’t impress me much.

That’s to say, the 7s26B! I was (and still) NOT happy with it, despite its spot-on accuracy, which faded out gradually after coming out of the factory. Seiko realization about spending more time regulating a movement was a good thing, but this wasn’t built exactly to let you hammer a nail while you got the 7s26B movement on your wrist. It’s not to say the 7S26B underwent a meltdown every time under vibrations and impacts, but for a lot of times, it suddenly started running quicker. And that was running ahead by many minutes a day. Surely, not something that will keep an accuracy-freak exactly happy about it. Not even the fact that the problem used to get solved with a light tapping (once or twice) on your palm with its face down. It freed the spring and the problem used to get fixed; however, a movement is supposed to run fine all by its own and not through some kind of acrobatics – such as this one – how much ever mild it might be.

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With the 7s26A movement, this was not a problem, since there is granted much less space for the spring to play around and get stuck. With the 7s26B, that part is about halfway of the length of the pin, which is also not quite straight on the lower side. So, if the spring gets a little behind the middle of the stem, it will get stuck there. This is also partly because the stud and the regulator-pin system in the 7S26B resemble that of the Etachron (the mechanism most of the common ETA calibres have made their staple for years now. Agreed that it makes them much easier to adjust than traditional regulator systems (which is also a marked advantage of the 7S26B), but determining the amount of force necessary to shift the body of the hairspring enough to catch on the outside of the regulator pins is difficult at best. It’s enough to give you a fair share of headaches.

I dare not to reprobate Seiko openly in public this way, but it was important if we are to discuss the Y676 next. That’s to say, the Y676 has a safeguard designed into the regulator pin to avoid the sweep of the outermost portion of the hairspring from between the reg. Pins, which stops it from jumping out of place when a shock is delivered. If you notice the small perpendicular tips at the end of the reg pins, you’ll get what I’m trying to say. The pins – are therefore – at their fully widest rotation – and allow for the removal of the balance and hairspring from the balance bridge, if necessary.

Watch(es) mentioned in this post are listed below. Click to see details and buy them:

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Technomarine Cruise Sport: The bold, vibrant, sea-bound beasts

It can’t be that the readers of our blog never heard of the name TechnoMarine. However, some might question its stand as a Swiss luxury watch, given it’s not been even two full decades since it took shape. French entrepreneur Franck Dubarry showed Geneva the launch of the Raft; the vacation souvenir chronograph sold in substantial numbers right in the first year itself! Later, they were seen embraced by limelight figures (Drake being one; in his song ‘Know yourself’, there’s a line – “I had a yellow TechnoMarine”. What he doesn’t sing about is the Swiss-made technical prowess in seamless motion along sharp, sleek lines. An example of effortless articulation with time moulded by thoroughly modern vibes! The Technomarine lets you experience a sophisticated flow that urges you to live wilder and deeper.


TechnoMarine is all about water-inspired elements! These timepieces encourage to change into a carefree attitude, infused with some pure, coastal-resort spirit. They come in different mixes of colours; often bright and all of a premium finish. The components are a physical representation of the concepts behind; they are sporty, innovative and get you enthusiastic about the world outdoors. Explore and experience a new fashion that is weaved around luxury!
Technomarine can be called distinctive. Some of them heavily incorporate organic elements; are dynamic in every aspect and are ideal for boating, diving and beach as much as in a busy, city life.


A personal preference is the TechnoMarine Cruise Sport line. The Cruise Sport makes for a pleasant, first-time meeting with TechnoMarine. After some intimate time with these watches, you will be proud you made it a part of your life. It also carries a bit of details, being the first project of TechnoMarine’s new CEO Vincent Perriard. The Cruise Sport was his first move in revitalizing the brand before implementing the future plans. The Ocean Addict was a clever ad campaign. TechnoMarine-s and their owners are to be found always in or around water but are not bound by the condition. They look different on the wrist – a rare quality among watches! It’s nicely curved; the round case flows to almost integrate itself with the wrist. It doesn’t look like as if it is sitting on a table. This curvy look changes the appearance of the technical-looking dials; balanced, well-mixed of symmetry and imbalance. The overall looks are pretty straight-forward, even when in bright colours and bolder designs.

The Technomarine Cruise Sport line comprises some of the most serious pieces in terms of stature and demeanour. Orange, blue and cyan doesn’t look that good in other watches. The colourful possibilities of the Technomarine Cruise Sport line are outstanding, as they also add a bit of a three-dimensional touch. All in all, a style that feels like having just enough going on; not gone overboard!

Watch(es) mentioned in this post are listed below. Click to see details and buy them:

http://www.creationwatches.com/products/technomarine-watches-370/technomarine-jellyfish-cruise-collection-chronograph-tm-115111-mens-watch-9085.html
http://www.creationwatches.com/products/technomarine-watches-370/technomarine-dream-cruise-collection-chronograph-tm-115096-mens-watch-9084.html
http://www.creationwatches.com/products/technomarine-watches-370/technomarine-dream-cruise-collection-chronograph-tm-115092-mens-watch-9083.html
http://www.creationwatches.com/products/technomarine-watches-370/technomarine-monogram-cruise-collection-japanese-quartz-tm-115060-mens-watch-9082.html
http://www.creationwatches.com/products/technomarine-watches-370/technomarine-star-cruise-collection-chronograph-tm-115035-womens-watch-9081.html

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Newsletter : Seiko “Turtle” 200m Auto Diver watches on Sale – Additional discount code inside!


Use code TURTLE for additional 5% off!

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